There’s a brand-new option for kosher food in Brookline: Za’tar Mediterranean Cuisine is now KVH-certified. The year-old restaurant obtained its certification a month ago.
“We opened as a non-kosher restaurant, but after about 10 months, I saw a high demand in the Jewish community to make it kosher. We attract a Jewish population from Brighton, Newton, Brookline and really all over,” says owner Yehoshua Peled, who also runs Chestnut Hill’s Pineapple Thai with partner Supaporn Bunnagitkarn.
Za’tar chef Afrnan Bahansi is from Israel, and his food is scratch-made, from bourekas to baklava. On a recent visit, I tried the mushroom bourekas, which are essential to order: flaky and crisp on the outside and earthy within, the ideal four-bite snack. Also memorable: a woodsy baba ganoush, silky-smooth tahini and a rich, nutty (gluten-free and vegan!) hummus that’s perfectly creamy and thick, with just the slightest hint of lemon.
But the surprise favorite? Grilled beef tucked into an airy, light pita, tossed with fresh cucumbers, spicy marinated pickles and a zesty Turkish salad mixture: parsley, tomato sauce, olive oil and lemon. It tastes like spring.
Portions are large (many dishes are available in bulk to feed a family), and the menu is big, too: I’m eager to try the schnitzel next time, which Peled says is a best-seller, as well as the falafel balls. But right now, I’m still eating that glorious, thick baba ganoush with a spoon, pausing occasionally to swipe a fresh wedge of pita through the bowl. There’s also a separate vegan menu, clearly labeled.
“This is a real taste of Israel,” Peled says, and I agree. Pop in for lunch or dinner, or hire them to cater your next event: Bahansi is accustomed to cooking for large groups.